Find out Your Dog’s DNA !

It’s so great that so many people are rescuing dogs these days !

With every new dog comes a mystery, what breeds make up our new pal?  Why does he/she do that? What’s the best way to make my new dog happy?

We think the Wisdom Panels’ DNA solution is the best on the market.

It’s really simple.  You receive a kit that includes two swabs.  You gently swab your dog’s gums, and send back two samples in the enclosed priority-mail-postage-paid kit.  They send you back great updates when they receive the sample and then the results.

Here’s this week’s featured dog- Molly.

First, take a look at this adorable dog.

Molly-Mystery Dog

 

She is very loving, always happy and walks with the most curious waddle that definitely hints of more than shitzu.  While she is a real charmer, in one second, without any notice, she turns into a terror and can attack another dog.  Her pet parent, was thrilled to find out she can finally solve the mysteries of Molly’s behavior.

Gayle has shared the results of her Wisdom DNA Panel and is thrilled to find out about Molly.  See if you guessed correctly.  Send us your dog’s results and if they are published, we will send you a free gulpy dog water bottle.

 

Molly's Family Tree

 

Molly’s Ancestry

molly's dna details

Molly's Shitzu Background

Molly's Secret Recipe

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Protecting Your Dog From Heat -Summer Dog Fun

Summer is approaching and we are all looking forward to getting our dogs outside , but it’s important to remember that  dogs don’t do as well in hot weather as people do.

Here’s some hot weather Dog Safety Tips:

Be aware that not all dogs handle heat in the same way. Dogs build up heat as a function of volume and lose it as a function of surface area. This means that larger dogs with rounder bodies have less surface area for their size, and build up heat faster.

In addition, dogs lose heat through evaporation from their nasal passages and tongue. This means that dogs with flat faces are less able to lose heat. As a rule, the bigger the dog and the flatter the face, the more prone they are to overheating. Overweight and older dogs have an even greater risk, as do dogs with thick fur.

Fur coats can be hot. Fur provides some amount of protection from the sun, but thick fur prevents body heat from escaping and promotes overheating. It’s a myth that shaving a dog’s coat makes him hotter. Shaving it to the skin can make him vulnerable to sunburn, but cutting the fur to about one inch can help him stay cooler. If you don’t want to shave him, brush as much undercoat as you can out, and be sure no solid mats are there to trap heat and moisture.

Don’t exercise your dog when it’s warm. Be careful with outdoor exercise, particularly running and jogging at your pace.  Signs to note are rapid breathing, red gums,  thick, profuse saliva.  These are symptoms of  full blown heat stroke, and you must act fast to save his life. (see below)

Unfortunately, veterinarians see far too many dogs in this situation every year, many of which succumb.The dog car thermometer was invented by a vet to help people understand just how hot their cars can become and to NOT LEAVE YOUR DOG IN THE CAR in summer.

Studies show that the temperature inside cars can heat to lethal temperatures within 30 minutes even if the weather outside is relatively cool. Regardless of outside air temperature, cars heat up at a similar rate – gaining 80 percent of their final temperature within 30 minutes. Cars that start at a comfortable 72 degrees F (22 degrees C), for example, soar to a deadly 117 degrees F (47 degrees C) after 60 minutes in the sun. Cracking the windows scarcely affects the temperature inside.

Dogs overheat before people do, so even though you may be just a little warm, your dog can be lethally overheated. On warm days, exercise your dog first thing in the morning, late at night, or only where he can cool off in water. Asphalt can be very hot and hurt their paws.

Be prepared for travel emergencies. You’re driving with your dog on a hot day, enjoying the air conditioning. Suddenly the car dies. As you wait for help, the temperature is rising, and your dog is starting to get overheated. If you have water, offer some to him, and pour some over him. Next time, prepare by bringing a cooler with ice and a small car-battery-powered fan. Soak your dog and a towel in ice water, have him sit on the towel, and aim the fan at him. Air blowing over your dog’s wet skin and fur cools him just as your sweat in a breeze cools you. Keep a gulpy and a dog cooling pad in the car to keep him cool and hydrated.

Provide for comfort at home. You left your dog in the yard, but the day turned out hotter than you expected. Next time, provide for your dog’s comfort before you leave. Be sure he has a place that’s shady all day long. Buy a kiddy pool and fill it with water so he can soak in it and cool off. If possible, aim a fan at him from a sheltered place so he has a breeze. If your dog is left inside, you may need to run the air conditioning, or at least a fan. If the weather is very hot, you may need to find a way to guard against electrical outages while you’re away. Some pets have died when the electricity, and thus air conditioning, unexpectedly went off during the day. A cooling pad will definitely help keep him cool.
Not All Dogs Can Swim! Although swimming is a great exercise in warm weather, make sure your dog can swim first! Certain breeds such as: bulldogs, French bulldogs and Pekingese, can’t swim. And even good swimmers can drown in backyard pools if they don’t know where the steps are to climb out.

How to Care For an Overheated Dog

Don’t plunge an overheated dog into ice water. This causes the peripheral blood vessels to contract, actually trapping the overheated blood at the body’s core — just where it does most harm. Instead, cool the dog slowly by placing him in cool water, or by draping him with wet towels and aiming a fan at him. Offer him plenty of cool water.

If you have a thermometer, cool him until his temperature reaches 103 degrees F (39 degrees C), then stop, as it will continue to decline. As soon as you have him cooling, race him to the veterinarian. Even if he appears to have recovered, he needs to go to the veterinarian because some delayed but deadly effects can still occur even days later.

Dogs and UV Rays. Dogs, especially light-skinned dogs, can get sunburn and melanoma. If you dog likes to sun worship, rub a sunblock on his belly and the top of his nose, the most common sites for sunburn.

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How to Protect Your Pets From Coyotes

How to Protect Your Pets from Coyotes

Coyote in neighborhood

As we develop on the land that they once occupied, coyotes are getting more and more widespread. We now are dealing with several in our neighborhood. It is so alarming to see neighborhood pets being threatened and to feel apprehension when you walk the dogs.  There are several things that you need to know to keep you and your pet safe from coyotes. Our goal is to just educate people to keep their animals safe.  Similarly, we believe every community should take as many precautions as necessary and trapping and moving coyotes should be considered only after animals and humans have been threatened repeatedly.

Don’t think that your pet is safe just because you have a fence around your yard.  Even an eight foot wall is not a detriment. Coyotes have been known to jump fences. Don’t think your dog is safe just because you are with him while walking through your neighborhood.  Many dogs have been attacked while walking with their owner, especially if the owner is using a retractable leash, since these leashes often extend past the safe six feet distance and make it hard to get your dog in close –fast.

Coyotes are amazingly cunning and clever. In one example, a homeowner returned after a vacation to find their dog was missing from their yard.  They had a video camera in the yard so they watched the video for clues.   They saw that a coyote had been coming in their yard every night and playing with their dog.  The dog would play with the coyote and then gallop back into the house.  On the fourth night, the coyote tricked the dog into going a bit farther and then snatched him.

How To Protect Your Pet -Coyotes are opportunistic – reduce the opportunities.

  • Keep Your Cat Inside. Coyotes prey on cats and catch them too often. We have several heartbreaking stories in our neighborhood.
  • If you have a dog, walk with them close to your side. Do not leave them alone in a fenced backyard, keep them on a leash at night when you go outside. Keep dogs on a leash in front of you at all times.  Coyotes have snatched pets off of leashes following behind.
  • Secure doggy doors: Coyotes have entered garages and homes to attack pets.  Keep doggy doors locked.
  • Don’t use a retractable leash! Your dog can get too far away from you with a retractable leash. We’ve heard many stories of coyotes snatching a dog that strayed too far from its owner on a retractable.
  • Walk in a pack with other people and other dogs, the larger your pack, the less vulnerable you appear to be to an opportunistic coyote. Walk at dusk and dawn with lighted collars and leashes.  Studies of coyote attacks on farm animals shows a decrease in lighted areas.  Our customers tell us they feel safer with products and that the lights improve their night vision.
  • Do Not Leave Food Outside:  Keep all pet food and water bowls indoors.  Remove fallen fruit from trees.  Take your garbage cans out in the morning of garbage day.  Do not leave them outside. 4.  Garbage Cans should be shut tightly to prevent coyotes who have a keen sense of smell from being attracted to your home by smells.
  • Shrubbery:  Coyotes will lay in wait for your pets.  Make sure to trim ground-level shrubbery to avoid hidding places.
  • Bird Feeders:  Do not have bird feeders on your property.  Bird food will attract rats which will attract coyotes to your home.
  • Seal-up any openings under porches, decks and sheds with welded wire that is buried at least 18 inches below the ground.
  • Carry a device that makes noise. Many people carry a bull horn or a coke can filled with pennies that they shake to make noise.  The pet-corrector emits a loud spray that simulates a snake’s hissing, a known predator.
  • Carry citronella spray. Keep it armed in ready position.  We recommend this over pepper spray on the chance that it hits you or your pet.
  • Coyote Approaches You:  NEVER, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES,TURN YOUR BACK AND RUN.  Become BIG! Wave your arms, scream, throw rocks!  By running, you are seen as prey by the coyote.  Carry a walking stick or keep a detterent spray handy or noise maker.  Plan outside activities during the day light hours when coyotes are less active.  Avoid potential coyote den sights.

PREVENTIVE MEASURES FROM COYOTES

a.  Human scent such as cologne or perfume should be applied especially in your backyard.  Be sure to reapply after any rain.

b.  Ammonia-soaked rags or apply to an area with a squirt bottle.  Must be re-applied after rain.  Other odor deterrents such as cayenne pepper or vinegar in water gusn or ballons, etc. are also useful.

c.  Install motion detector lights around all areas of your property.

Coyotes that are no longer afraid of humans are called “imprinted”.  When coyotes continue to be a problem after non-lethal methods have proven unsuccessful or when human health and safety is jeopardized, it is sometimes necessary to kill one or more animals.

Sources to the above information were obtained from the United States Department of Agriculture, Department of Fish & Game, Colorado Division of Wildlife and Project Coyote. ROSSMOOR PREDATOR MANAGEMENT TEAM
1100 + RPMT MEMBERS/Constituents
& David & Rebecca Lara- Keeping Kids & Pets Safe

Coyotes with pups

Here’s a well-researched article explaining why we are seeing coyotes more often in the daytime.

COYOTE ATTACKS: AN INCREASING SUBURBAN PROBLEM*

Robert M. Timm, Hopland Research & Extension Center, University of California, Hopland, California /Rex O. Baker, California State Polytechnic University-Pomona (retired), Corona, California /Joe R. Bennett, USDA APHIS Wildlife Services, Taft, California /Craig C. Coolahan, USDA APHIS Wildlife Services, Sacramento, California

The Changing Suburban Environment

Urban sprawl throughout Southern California, now extending across valleys and flat lands adjacent to mountain slopes and arroyos thickly vegetated with chaparral and mountain scrub, provides miles of habitat edge between residential developments and wildlands.  Driven by new landscape ordinances, increased affluence, and desire to create lush and attractive landscapes in new developments, humans have now created within as few as five to six years rich landscapes that are more attractive to rodents, rabbits, and other wildlife (Baker 1984).  These new habitats, as well as landscaped freeway rights-of-way, may develop significant populations of rabbits (Sylvilagus spp.), pocket gophers (Thomomys bottae), ground squirrels (Spermophilus beecheyi), meadow voles (Microtus spp.), and commensal rodents (Rattus spp. and Mus musculus) within only a few years.  Such areas serve as corridors for coyote movement within suburban areas, and they are sufficiently rich in resources to serve as permanent coyote habitat.

Changes in Coyote Behavior

Young and Jackson (1951, p. 69) relate a 1947 report from Yellowstone National Park in which park staff described two coyotes habituated to tourists.  They noted that while in the past park visitors “were lucky to even see a glimpse” of a coyote, now these two animals were extensively observed begging for food and posing for pictures, causing tourist traffic jams along the main park highway… an occurrence “until now unheard of in Yellowstone’s colorful history.”  Parker (1995) describes two instances in which coyotes bit visitors to Cape Breton Highlands National Park in Nova Scotia, Canada.  In both cases, he noted that the coyotes responsible had grown accustomed to tourists feeding them, even though such feeding is strictly prohibited.

The typical activity pattern of coyotes in the absence of human harassment seems to be largely crepuscular and diurnal, but when predator control activities are under­taken, coyotes shift their activity mainly to nighttime to avoid humans (Kitchen et al. 2000).  Conversely, a lack of human harassment coupled with a resource-rich environment that encourages coyotes to associate food with humans can result in coyotes losing their “normal” wariness of humans.  Howell (1982) stated that this sort of environment, which had developed in hillside residential areas of Los Angeles County, produced “abnormal numbers of bold coyotes.”  At that time, he noted it was not unusual for joggers, newspaper delivery persons, and other early risers to observe one to six coyotes daily in such residential areas.  By the late 1990s, Baker noted that coyotes in this area commonly could be observed feeding in late mornings and afternoons, and residents saw coyotes in yards, on streets (Figure 2), and on parks and golf courses throughout the day (Baker and Timm 1998).  More recently, coyotes have been observed during mid-day on school grounds.  Such behavioral changes appear to be directly associated with increased attacks on humans.

Based on an analysis of coyote attacks previously described, there is a predictable sequence of observed changes in coyote behavior that indicates an increasing risk to human safety (Baker and Timm 1998).  We now define these changes, in order of their usual pattern of occurrence, as follows:

1)    An increase in observing coyotes on streets and in yards at night

2)    An increase in coyotes approaching adults and/or taking pets at night

3)    Early morning and late afternoon daylight observance of coyotes on streets and in parks and yards

4)    Daylight observance of coyotes chasing or taking pets

5)    Coyotes attacking and taking pets on leash or in close proximity to their owners; coyotes chasing joggers, bicyclists, and other adults

6)    Coyotes seen in and around children’s play areas, school grounds, and parks in mid-day

7)    Coyotes acting aggressively toward adults during mid-day.
Carbyn (1989) analyzed 10 attacks on humans documented in Canadian and U.S. national parks from 1960 through 1988, concluding that they were predatory in nature; that is, the coyotes, having lost their fear of humans, regarded small children as prey.  This opinion has been shared by others who have investigated such attacks (see Baker and Timm 1998).  Carbyn noted that of the four most serious attacks, all were on children and three occurred during the season when pups were whelped or were being fed.  He speculated that the coyotes’ boldness was related to food stress.  He also noted the occurrence of additional aggressive responses to humans, at various seasons, that did not fit this pattern (e.g., chasing cars and biting at tires, slashing tents, and nipping at campers in sleeping bags), concluding that there may not have been a common basis for these additional aberrant behaviors.  The motive for attacks by coyotes is not always hunger (Connolly et al. 1976) or protection of dens.  Movement, particularly escape behavior, is a key stimulus for eliciting orientation and attack (Lehner 1976); children’s play and running behavior, particularly when running away from a coyote, may provide a strong stimulus for attack.

An Increasing Problem

 

As far as we know, the first reported coyote attacks on humans in California not involving rabies-induced aggression occurred in the late 1970s, and we document a total of 89 attacks in the state between that time and December 2003.  Approximately 79 percent of these have occurred in the last 10 years, indicating that this problem is increasing (Table 1, Figure 3).  Of the persons suffering injury, more than half (55 percent) have been adults.

Of the attacks on children and adults listed in Table 1, 63 percent occurred during the season when adult coyotes would most likely be provisioning pups or experiencing increased food demands because of the female’s gestation (March through August), while 37 percent of attacks occurred during the other six months of the year (September through February).  When only those attacks directed against children (≤10 years of age) are considered, 72 percent occurred during the reproductive season.  This lends support to Carbyn’s (1989) hypothesis that such attacks may be related to food demands.  Alternatively, this seasonality in attacks could be related to other behaviors associated with territoriality, reproduction, and defense of den sites and/or pups.

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In addition to the human safety issue, coyotes’ presence in close association with humans can represent a potential health risk to people and their pets.  Rabies, if it were to become established in suburban coyote populations, could easily put humans and domestic animals at risk.  An episode of rabies in 16 dogs in Los Angeles in 1921 was suspected to have originated with coyotes or other wildlife. Another rabies outbreak in 1959 – 60 in the border areas of Mexicali Valley, Baja Calif., and Imperial Valley, California is described by Cocozza and Alba (1962).  Many newborn calves were lost, and there were multiple coyote attacks on humans, cattle, and dogs.  Between 1950 and 1995, 28 coyotes were confirmed positive for rabies in California (Ryan 1997).  Coyotes also carry the dog tapeworm Echinococcus granulosus, which can cause hydatid cyst disease in humans.  Further, coyotes can serve as reservoirs for the canine heartworm Dirofilaria immitis, which is spread to dogs by mosquito vectors (Sacks 1998), as well as serving as hosts for the mite Sarcoptes scabiei that causes sarcoptic mange in canids.

Discussion and Management Implications

Several factors may have led to the recent increases in predator attacks on humans in North America.  Among them are human population growth, suburban sprawl, and protection of predator species that were once harassed and suppressed by hunters, trappers, and landowners.  The number of incidents between humans and coyotes in Southern California seems to be related to the human population (or some function that correlates with human population); counties with larger populations have experienced the greatest number of coyote attacks (Table 2).

Southern California’s residential developments in recent years have extended dramatically into landscapes that provide considerably more “edge” between brushy wildlands and the suburbs.  This habitat change, which can enrich carrying capacity for coyotes, is partly responsible for growing predator populations in close proximity to humans.  One estimate suggests that more than 5,000 coyotes live within the city limits of Los Angeles (Ryan 1997), an area of 469 square miles (1,216 km2), for an average of 10.7 coyotes per square mile (4.1/km2).

Reduced coyote control efforts by federal and/or county agencies, as well as by landowners, may have led to increased coyote attacks in two ways: local coyote numbers are no longer suppressed, and coyotes’ fear of humans is no longer reinforced by lethal control efforts (i.e., shooting and trapping).  Coyote control programs, viewed largely by citizens as agricultural or rural services, have declined as Southern California became increasingly urbanized and political and financial support for control programs waned.  Concurrently, sport hunting and target shooting activities in this region have declined as well, severely restricted by municipal, county, and/or state ordinances.  These factors have further contributed to coyotes’ loss of wariness.

 

 

 

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Lighted Dog Collar Reviews

Last year, 2011, was a memorable year for lighted dog collars.  The first rechargeable lighted dog collar was released.  This collar answered all of our customers requests-it was rechargeable, it sensed when it got dark and automatically turned on, it had reflective stripes, a blinking and a steady mode, a great quality buckle.  It was too good to be true !

Lighted Dog Collar

And unfortunately, it was too good to be true.  We salute Company of Animals for standing behind this product and for trying to create the perfect lighted dog collar. The issues were mostly with the charger.  It wouldn’t work and got hot.  Many customers found they could just use the USB attachment and plug it into their computer and it was fine.  We were replacing collars in the beginning and found we couldn’t guarantee the replacement collar would work.  We refunded the collar with shipping costs for up to sixty days.  Needless to say, doing the right thing is a costly proposition, but it’s the right thing to do.

Here’s our top three collar recommendations for 2012

The Niteize glow collar is the most durable and reliable. It doesn’t use LED technology with wiring, it uses a glow technology, so it is less likely to break due to weather, dog fur, dog pulling, and usage. Niteize stands behind their products and this collar has been around for over 10 years.

 

 

DOg Elites CollarThe Dog-E-Lites flashing red and blue collar is also durable.  We recommend keeping the plastic cover over the battery box for double durability.  It has LED technology with a flash only mode of red & blue lights.  It comes in all sizes -including extra small.  Dog-E-Lites is a Canadian company and stands behind their products.  They have matching leashes in small and large sizes.

 

LED Yellow lights dog collarThe LED safety collar is very bright with flashing yellow LEDs and uses AAA batteries.  It has exposed wiring so it is less durable than other collars.  It’s still a good collar.

 

 

We have the Visiglo collars on Close-out.  They either last two years or two weeks- we ctest them here and they work fine but have random issues.   Use it as a test collar to see how you like lighted collars, then come back and try one of the above collars.

Honesty is always our policy as it relates to dog safety.  Chat with us live anytime while shopping and we will make sure you get the right product for your dog.

Top Dog

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Tips for Buying a Lighted Dog Leash

In our opinion, a lighted dog leash is the most important dog safety product.  It literally saved our lives and every day we hear another story from a customer about how it saved them on a walk.

In our case, we were walking around a corner and the car screeched to a halt right in front of us and the driver stammered how sorry they were that they would have hit us if they didn’t see the leash.  That was it.  It was a true Oprah moment- we vowed to start a business and sell this great product.  We even created our name and logo around this product.

 

 

The most important feature of the lighted dog leash is that it forms a visible line from you to the dog so you are very visible.  Most leashes using a flashing technology because the flash creates more visibility -the flash is more visible to drivers. Most lights don’t go all of the way to the end of the leash for several reasons. First, the power needed for the longer strip of lights exceeds the amount of juice created by most batteries.  Second, when the lights go all of the way down it puts them near the dog’s collar and D-ring, the pulling motion on the leash disables the circuitry.  Lastly, it creates an additional cost and most people feel most comfortable spending about $20-25 for a lighted leash.

Here’s some tips for choosing the right leash for you and your dog

     

  • If your dog is a major puller, then get the reflective, glow leash, there are no circuits that can break
  • The LED lighted leashes are visible for 1/2 mile/ Glow leashes are visible for 1/4 mile
  • The VISIGLO LED leash and the Glow leashes have two modes -ALWAYS-ON & blink mode !
  • The steady light feature uses more power so you might have to change the batteries more often
  • You can walk two dogs with one lighted dog leash, just add a dog coupler to the bottom of the leash
  • If you have a small dog, choose the flashing red & blue leash, it comes in a smaller size and is lighter
  • We recommend an armband or slaplight for you to add to the visibility

 

 

Here’s a video showing the leash in action:

http://www.keepdoggiesafe.com/info.html

Most leashes have matching lighted dog collars, so your dog is also protected when not on a leash.  The glow collar is the most durable lighted dog collar, then the dog-e-lites collars, then the LED safety collar, lastly the Visiglo lighted collars.  The Visiglo lighted dog leash is a fantastic, durable leash but the collars have some issues. They are exposed to more factors; being taken on and off, dog’s fur and moisture, etc.

A lighted leash typically lasts six months to two years, depending upon these factors:

  • Your dog’s personality -pullers, biters,leash shakers, chewers, etc
  • How it is stored (no garages-cold affect electronics)
  • Usage-did it drop, do you take it everywhere, does it sit in the sunlight, etc

At Keep Doggie Safe, we warranty the leash for 30 days to match the manufacturer’s warranty.  We have been selling these leashes for over six years and have found if the leash is defective, it typically breaks within a month, and we will cheerfully replace it.

Once you walk with a lighted leash, you won’t want to go out at dawn or dusk without it. It’s similiar to driving a car with seatbelts, it becomes a valuable habit that could save you and your dog.

Be Safe. Be Seen. Love Your Dog.

Top Dog- Chat with me anytime, I’m online to help you while you are shopping

 

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Tips for Dog Safety in the Fall

It ‘s fall and it’s getting cooler and that means more home cooking and warm fires. Thanksgiving and Xmas are around the corner.  As you decorate the house and starting cooking more , please keep these holiday pet safety tips in mind.

1.      Daylight savings time roars into you and your pet’s schedule.  Be sure to break out your lighted collars, leashes and pet lights.  Drivers are still not adjusted to driving at dark and pet safety is the most critical now.

  1. Be careful around candles and fires. If you are lighting  candles –be sure  to never leave any fire unattended particularly when you have pets in the house. Not only can curious whiskers get burned, if a candle is knocked over by a wagging tail, it can lead to a serious fire.
  2. Don’t Give In and Give Them Food. Chicken soup is on the stove, mac and cheese is around, we wish we could practice what we preach –just remember – too much human food can be bad for your pet’s health.
  3. Hide the breakables. Holiday feasts can mean bringing out treasured items and good china. Just remember that your beloved pets don’t know the value of these items, and they could get broken. So if you have favorite, breakable decorations or table settings, be sure to keep them out of reach.
  4. Watch out for toxic plants. Many holiday plants, including mistletoe, holly, poinsettia, and even that beautiful Thanksgiving centerpiece of lilies can be toxic to pets. If you must decorate with these holiday pet dangers, keep them well away from curious paws and mouths.
  5. No Alcohol-Ever. When you raise that glass of holiday bubbly, be sure to place your unattended alcoholic drinks where Fluffy or Fido can’t sneak a taste. Alcohol and pets simply don’t mix. If ingested, your pet could become weak, ill, go into a coma or worse. It’s never cute and it’s never smart.
  6. Hide the Chocolate. Although many people like to leave out chocolates for visitors throughout the holidays, it’s important to remember that these sweets are major pet dangers.
  7. Keep the lights high. Many people enjoy decorating with strings of lights during the holidays- just hang them high.  Pets can get tangled in them or chew them If you must- try solar and save the earth-too.
  8. Don’t decorate with food. Strings of cranberries and popcorn can be a beautiful way to liven up your household, but they’re holiday hazards for pets. Even if the food on the string isn’t toxic for Fido or Fluffy, they may end up eating the string—and that can cause serious health problems.
  9. Tinsel is toxic.. Tinsel is more than just a glittery decoration. If your pets eat it, it can cause intestinal problems that require a trip to the veterinarian.

Enjoy every moment of Fall with your best friend.  Nothing beats walking through the leaves together, running through tree-lined streets and the crisp air.  Be Safe & Enjoy Every Moment.

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How to Keep Your Dog Safe on Halloween

It’s Halloween night and the door bell is continuously ringing…


This may be very frightening to your dog or cat or other pets. You need to have a game plan for them, as well, on Halloween night. Have a room set up for them and keep them behind closed doors during trick-or-treating hours. Have food, water, a toy or two and a litter box if needed all set up for them.

  • You saw the cutest costume for your pet! Just because you think a certain Halloween costume for your fur person is cute doesn’t mean that they will enjoy wearing it! Try it on them in advance and see how they react. If they don’t like it, don’t force them to wear it.
  • If you own a cat and let it go outside, remember that this a bad time of year for cats. Keep them inside for a few days and nights. While they may whine a bit because they are used to going outside, they’ll be safer in the house where you can keep an eye on them.
  • Having an adult party? Remember, dogs, cats, birds and other animals do not like being intoxicated. Some people at may think it’s funny to get an animal drunk but it can kill them.
  • As much as your dog or cat may beg for some of your Halloween candy, always remember that chocolate is deadly to them in any amount. There’s a chemical that naturally occurs in chocolate that they can not tolerate.
  • The wrappers, such as tin foil, can get stuck in your pet’s digestive tract and make them ill or cause death. There are plenty of recipes for making home made Halloween dog and cat treats.
  • Large dogs can have strong tails when it comes to wagging them. Don’t leave any lighted candles or Jack-O-Lanterns where they could be knocked over by a swinging tail or a curious cat. Not only could your pet start a fire but they could severely burn themselves in the process.
  • If you are going to dress your pet in a costume, keep in mind that unless the dog or cat is extremely receptive to this kind of thing, you could be causing it discomfort and stress. Some animals don’t mind at all but others do not want to be bothered with this kind of thing. They’ll be under enough stress with the festivities going on outside and people constantly at the door so don’t cause them any more stress then you have to.
  • If a pet costume comes with a mask, don’t use it. While some dogs will love dressing up, they usually aren’t too keen on masks. If you do use a mask on your pet, make sure that it’s eyes have plenty of room to see and that there is nothing covering it’s nose or confining it’s mouth.
  • If you are having a indoor party, make sure that you put your dog or cat in a room where they won’t be disturbed. Even if your pet is ultra friendly and doesn’t mind loud noises, music and lots of people you should keep them separate for the night. Also, be careful your cat or dog doesn’t dart out through the open door as you hand out candy. Best bet is to just put them in a room with some food and water for the night and check on them once in a while to let them know everything is fine.

Try the <a href=”http://www.keepdoggiesafe.com/thundershirt-dog-anxiety.html”>Thundershirt</a> anti-anxiety shirt to reduce the anxiety.  It really works!

Check Out Our Halloween Pet Videos on Youtube !
<a href=”http://www.youtube.com/user/keepdoggiesafe#p/u ” target=”_blank”> Our YouTube Site with Cute Puppy Videos</a>
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How To Keep Your Dog Cool

Dog Days Of Summer - Keeping Your Dog Cool

This was the hottest summer for most of the country with many places having over 40 straight days of record heat. Combine that problem with power outages and the economy causing many people to not run their air conditioning and this leads to lots of hot people and dogs.

Here’s a list of ways to keep your dog cool.

Shade and protect
While these seem like common sense, it’s always good to do a quick review.

• Never leave your dog in a car on warm days.

• When it’s hot outside, bring your dog inside. If you need the air conditioning, chances are your dog does, too. If you must leave your dog outside, make sure he has plenty of shade, water, and ventilation. Keep in mind that fences can block much needed breezes and it can be much hotter outside than you think.

• Never confine your dog or leave him crated in the sun. Use caution when leaving a crated dog under a shade awning, too. Remember that the sun moves and what was a shady spot can quickly become sun-baked. Please remember to put water in the crate on hot days.

• Provide rest breaks in the shade and plenty of water on all outdoor excursions.

• Avoid overexertion on hot or humid days. Even if your dog generally joins you on a walk or run, extreme temperatures call for a change in routine. Instead, walk, exercise, and practice dog sports early in the morning or late in the day when the temperature is cooler.

• A dip in cool water is one of the best ways for dogs (and people!) to cool off. Wet your dog with a hose, or provide water play like a sprinkler or a wading pool. You can also drape your dog with a wet bandana, towel, or T-shirt when it’s very hot. Try the new dog cooling vests with the evaporative cooling methods. http://www.keepdoggiesafe.com/summer-dog-fun.html

Walking in exposed areas and visiting outdoor flea markets or street fairs add the risk of burning the dog’s paws. Hot paws can become sore or even blistered, and walking on a hot surface may add to the dog’s susceptibility to heat exposure. Check out the boots that help protect your dog’s paws.http://www.keepdoggiesafe.com/traction-dog-boots.html

• If you are going to a hot environment to visit or vacation, consider purchasing a cool mat or other dog-friendly cooling aids. Be very aware of your dog’s response to the heat, provide extra water, and give him several days to acclimate before allowing him to be active.

• At the beach, be sure to provide a cool place (like a towel or blanket under the umbrella) for your dog, too.

• Limit sun exposure during the mid-day hours and use an animal-safe sunscreen on dogs with pink noses or exposed skin. Doggles makes a dog sun screen.

• Be especially careful with older or high-risk dogs.

Carry water on walks, there are several great dog water bottles available that make it easier than ever to carry water easily.http://www.keepdoggiesafe.com/waterbottles.html

To clip or not to clip
Expert recommendations vary on the topic of whether you should clip a dog’s coat to assist with heat management. The ASPCA suggests that for a double-coated dog (like a Chow), trimming the dog’s fur may help. But don’t shave the dog! Leave at least one inch of coat to provide some insulation and protection from sunburn. Generally, long-haired dogs with a single coat (like rough-coated Border Collies) should not be clipped, as their coats may not be dense enough to protect them from the sun when cut short.

Enjoy the dog days of summer
None of us (including our dogs) want to give up summer fun or the enjoyment of a warm day. But a little awareness and a heavy dose of caution will help you protect your dog from heat illness.

Remember, when dogs get too hot, you can generally tell. They slow down, their tongues hang out, and they may even search for a spot in the shade. Most dogs, given the opportunity, will take steps to keep themselves cool on a warm day.

Please make sure they  cool off and be careful not to  ask them to work or play hard when the temperature is too warm for their bodies to handle. Make cooling activities part of your summer fun together!

With a little caution, you and your dog can enjoy the “dog days” all summer long.

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Seven Reasons Not To Buy A Retractable Leash

People who think that they are doing their dog a favor by using a retractable leash for walking their dogs are not helping their dog.  We’ve heard lots of horror stories from our customers about retractable leashes. So, we’ve created a list of seven reasons why you should not use retractable leashes.

Rectractable leashes put your dogs at risk. One of our customers wasn’t paying close attention to her dogs and didn’t notice them walking into an elevator. The door closed and the dogs went up. By the time the elevator reached the fifth floor, the leashes broke. When the dogs finally got down to ground level again, they were fine, but the owner wasn’t. She was crying hysterically. She vows to never put her dogs in danger again by using a retractable leash close to a dangerous area such as an elevator or a busy street.

They give you a clear lack of control. Veterinarians will tell you that retractable leashes provide a clear lack of control. Owners of badly behaved or over-stimulated dogs can leap far away from their owners and attack people or other dogs. This happens in vets offices where other animals are present or while walking your dog.

They are a training hazard. Retractable leashes also allow your dog to walk ahead of you, making your dog in control. With a retractable leash, you have no way to correct your dog’s bad behavior. Dogs attack other dogs, run in front of cars, and create all types of havoc on a retractable leash.

They are a danger to others. More than one person has tripped over the long retractable leash while walking a dog, or while passing someone else who is walking a dog.

They are a danger to dogs. Coyotes love dogs on retractable leashes, it keeps the dogs close to them, not the owners, and it only takes one second for tragedy to strike

You can’t use a coupler with a retractable leash. If you try to use a coupler, you have no control of two dogs. More importantly, these leashes have weight limits and the second dog could take it over that limit and snap.

They are not safe for children. The scariest is to see a little kid walking a dog on a retractable leash.  They don’t have the life experience to understand all that can happen when a dog is that far away from them with all of the obstacles that can occur.

The leashes are unreliable. We’ve never found a retractable leash that didn’t click and stick or unspool suddenly at the exact wrong time (like when a stray cat crosses your path and an oncoming car has to slam on the brakes to spare your dog’s life). Sticky situations like this serve to illustrate how the “canine lunge line” can serve to thoroughly foul up your control over the animal.

What To Do?

At Keep Doggie Safe, we recommend that you use a standard leash. We have many <a href=”http://www.keepdoggiesafe.com/leashes.html”>fine leashes</a> on our site.  If you want them to have some pull, try a <a href=”http://www.keepdoggiesafe.com/wackywalkr.html”<Wacky Walk’r leash</a>.

We are open to feedback, so if you disagree and love retractable leashes, let us know. But tell us how you overcome the reasons above to have a satisfying experience with your dog.

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How do I walk two dogs with a coupler?

Our number #1 question on the website is how do I best walk two dogs together?   We are strong advocates of walking dogs with a coupler.  The largest benefit is you have only one leash and you aren’t constantly doing the “leash dance” where you are wrapped up in two leashes and maneuvering dogs.  Most dog owners are reluctant to try a coupler because they don’t think their dogs will walk together very well.  If one dog is older or has an injury, then we’d rule out the coupler.  In most other cases, it should only take three walks for them to adjust to it.

The coupler has a circle on the top and two pieces of material or rubber that attach to the ring.  With cloth couplers, you can adjust the sides of the coupler to different lengths to accommodate different size dogs.  You choose the size of the coupler based on EACH dog’s weight.  Every manufacturer has done an excellent job of building the couplers with enough material for each size of the dog (small, medium, or large).

 

 

 

If the dogs are two different size, we advocate the sporn adjustable coupler.  It has the most adjustment capability for two disparate size dogs.  You can buy it as a stand-alone coupler that attaches to a leash.  Or you can buy a leash that splits.

 

 

 

 

We think the wacky walkr couplers are the best on the market.  The elastic stretch gives your dog plenty of room and it reinforced with a nylon cable, so it will never snap or break.

The coupler has a circle on the top, elastic rubber attached to that, then a black nylon strap.  The nylon strap can be used as an extra handle to grab each dog individually and to pull them in fast.  The also have high quality swivel clips so the dogs can turn and don’t tangle.

 

 

 

If you add a wacky walkr leash with the coupler, you get a perfect walking system.  The leashes have an extra handle on the bottom of the leash with a swivel clip.  You can choose an urban leash (1.5-3 ft) or a standard leash (3-6ft) to add to the coupler.  The urban is recommended if you would like to keep your dogs close.  It still gives them plenty or room.

 

 

 

 

Whenever you walk two dogs together with a coupler or without, it’s always an issue when one dog wants to stop.  We can’t solve this issue but the extra handle on the coupler does make it easier to stop the non-stopped dog and let them finish their business.  We also recommend if you have a boy dog that you put them on the outside so the can lift their leg to the right.

Here’s a link to two videos:

http://www.keepdoggiesafe.com/wwcouplermed.html

Please don’t hesitate to email, blog or chat with your questions or comments.

Happy Walking! And thanks from the world of pet lovers for giving two dogs a good home.

Top Dog.

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